An uncluttered, rough-hewn interior (wood floors, heavy beams, whitewashed stone-walls) sets the scene here for a hearty and deceptively simple style of cooking, with local ingredients very much to the fore. At lunch expect the likes of wholesome cream of chestnut mushroom soup with big chunks of granary bread and Parmesan croutons, followed by rustic ham hock and pistachio terrine with piccalilli and salad. The same dish might double as an evening starter, ahead of fillet of sea bass with Penclawdd laverbread and salsa verde. For dessert, look out for silky crème brulee with melt-in-the-mouth shortbread, or maybe lemon posset with blood orange sorbet and flapjack. A simple international wine list kicks off at £17; alternatives include Pimms and cocktails.